Yarn Detective
Yarn on a Cone: A Word of Caution
I am a huge fan of buying yarn on cones to knit with. The yardage is vast; there’s no winding; there are fewer ends to weave in; and (sometimes) it’s cheaper.
Plus, I love how cones look all lined up on my shelf. It makes me feel like a fancy fiber artist.
Before you succumb to the siren song of coned yarn, there are things you should know. Coned yarn was made for weavers or machine knitters, not hand knitters.
Frequently, coned yarns feel and act differently from a skeined yarn, even if they are the same yarn, like the Harrisville Highland in Adobe shown above. I am completely swooning. There may be a sweater in my future.
You can see the difference between the two in this picture.
The coned yarn (top) still has spinning oils in it. It feels stiffer, looks a little compacted, and may feel sticky. Spinning oils are applied to fiber at a mill to help the fiber-to-yarn process go smoother. The oil helps the fiber glide through the spinning machines.
I knew they would be different, but I was surprised how much. The skeined yarn (bottom) feels squishy and light, and is a bit fuzzy.
At most mills, yarn on a cone is washed to release the spinning oils before it’s wound into skeins.
Harrisville Highland is one of my go-to basic yarns. It’s not buttery soft. I usually wear a shirt under my Highland sweater and am just fine. It’s a woolen spun, tweed yarn that comes in 64 (!) colors at a great price.
I have a sweater I still wear constantly that is older than my kids. I think I made it in 1995.
It’s knit from a cousin yarn of Highland that I believe is discontinued. It was Highland with tweed flecks.
To take this photo I had to grab the sweater out of the back seat of my car, where it seems to live from fall through winter, just in case I need another layer. I do not treat this sweater with the care I show some of my others but look how it has held up.
Knitting with yarn from a skein
I knit both of these swatches into a fabric that was pleasing to me. The skeined yarn (above) is 4.5 stitches to the inch, after wet blocking.
Now the cone yarn
The unfinished yarn swatch is on top; the finished yarn swatch on the bottom.
I chose my needle size for the cone yarn swatch by looking at the size of the yarn. I used a needle two sizes smaller than my first swatch and got 5 stitches to the inch before I wet blocked it.
Unfinished it felt fine. The gauge was good and worthy of a sweater. Any not-so-greatness was due to the firmness of the yarn from the spinning oil.
When I wet blocked it, the yarn swelled to 4.5 stitches per inch, but since it was knitted on smaller needles, it has the consistency of cardboard. It would not be a comfy sweater with this hand. It could stand up and run away on its own like the gingerbread man.
This is the cautionary tale of coned yarn. If you knit with it, you have to plan for a gauge change when the oil is washed out.
Left to right: Highland from a skein, off of the cone, from the cone after a soak in wool wash. The change is pretty incredible.
The change is extra dramatic because Highland is a woolen spun yarn. It’s light and lofty. Since the fibers in woolen spun yarns are less compressed in the spinning, there is more air in the structure of the yarn giving it room to puff when finished.
If you knit a coned yarn to your gauge without swatching and blocking, it could ruin your day. It most certainly will change your gauge.
What to do?
The top swatch is from a skein and the bottom is from the cone wound, washed, and caked. The gauge is the same on the same sized needles.
You can approach cone yarn in a couple of ways. You can skein the yarn from the cone, give it a soak in wool wash, let it dry, and wind it into a cake.
The top swatch is unfinished cone yarn knit on the project needles. The gauge is 4 stitches to an inch. The bottom swatch is a washed version of cone yarn on project needles, 4.5 stitches to an inch.
If that seems like a lot of extra work and goes against the fewer ends to weave in part of cone yarn knitting, you can do a double swatch.
Wash and swatch just enough yarn to determine your gauge and needle size. Then using the same size needles and stitch count, swatch with the cone yarn. This way you can see and feel the difference between the two.
Of course, you could just jump into knitting your sweater once you know the needle size you need after knitting with washed yarn—but I like having that unwashed safety swatch.
Without it I would convince myself something is wrong and likely fiddle with my knitting until I actually make it wrong, or put my knitting into time out indefinitely.
Having both swatches at hand as a reference while I work on my project lets me know all is well. I know I need that reminder right now.
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Wow, thanks for this enlightening post, Jillian. I’ve been knitting for a lot of years and I’ve always been tempted by coned yarn. But for me, the idea of winding the coned yarn into skeins (enough for, say, a sweater), washing (and drying) it, and rewinding it into cakes adds up to way, way too much work when I can get nearly the same effect just by buying skeins in the first place. Am I missing something?
I wonder why the coned yarn is better for weavers? Is it something about the texture of the yarn or is it just that having a lot of one color without numerous ends makes sense for weaving?
Thanks again for another of your fascinating posts!
Jillian, I just set your book out, “Yarnitecture,” to show and recommend to a friend who is coming over today to try my spinning wheel. What a great book for spinners and knitters alike! It is so informative about yarns and their properties and how they affect one’s knitting. If you really want to understand your yarn’s behavior or which yarn to choose for what outcome you want from your project, you will want to read this. The photography is gorgeous and illuminating too.
As it happens, right now I’m wearing a cabled cardigan that I knit from cones of Highland! And, yes, I had to knit a couple swatches to get the gauge right because they changed so much with blocking. Totally worth it.
As a weaver and knitter who has used the Harrisville coned yarns, I can tell you that the unwashed coned yarn goes through the heddles of the loom much easier than the washed yarn and as you say, longer lengths for winding warps.
That’s very useful information. Thank you!
Thanks KatherineM! This is all so interesting!
Wow! I learned a lot!!!! The only yarn I have on cones is a cotton blend so I’ve not run into this problem. I use it for dishcloths and crochet edgings and for colors on my shelf too!!! However, Jillian, you are a fancy fiber artist in my opinion!!! Now off to find a skein of Harrisville Highland to purchase and swatch!!! Looks lovely! Have a marvelous Monday everyone! I’m in Texas and I think I feel spring pushing winter onward so hang in there all in the cold north—- spring is on your southern horizon! Almost hate to see our cooler temps go. Have to start a tee in a cotton blend soon.
This is such a timely article for me. I bought my first cone of yarn from Jagger Spun for a Pressed Flower cardigan. I’ll definitely be washing and skeining the yarn!
Thank you for the great article as I was curious about the cone v. skein and yarn behavior. The swatches show beautiful yarn as well.
Wow!
THANK you for this heads-up!
I have cone yarns in my stash aiming towards something yet to be decided. Now I know to wash & swatch in advance!
Have you been peeking into my stash room? LOL!
Thank you VERY much for this column. I’ve been contemplating a cone’s worth of this very yarn lately assuming it was exactly like the skeined version. Good to know! Thank you for these words of enlightenment!
As always, I love your articles. They are always so informative and interesting. I love that color of Highland. The only yarn I have ever bought on a cone is 100% linen yarn. I haven’t used it yet (it’s in my queue of 1001 projects) but I assume because of the fiber I’m safe with that one.
Phew, what a timely post!
I bought some coned yarn from a small Scottish mill several years ago. It has been sitting in my stash waiting for the perfect project, so now I know what I’ll need to do when that time arrives.
Any suggestions on how long to soak in the wool wash to get the oil out? Several soaks or just one?
As a weaver, knitter, spinner and dyer, I highly recommend Orvus Soap (aka paste) for washing your yarns and swatches. It works excellently for cleaning yarns and fabrics safely and is so much cheaper than the expensive products sold by yarn stores. I learned about this from my weaving guild members, so know it has been tested by many for years. Don’t let the description online deter you (“WA Paste Cleaner – 120oz.- Horse, Livestock and Dog Shampoo – Quilt, Fine Linen Detergent/Cleaner”) lol! Just follow the directions for dilution (a little goes a long way) and you will be happy. Of course, test it first on a small swatch.
It may take a couple of washings to really get it out. I usually do a good soak with wool wash (or Ivory liquid dish soap – I find it works beautifully on wool) followed by a quick rinse and then another soak in water with a good slug of white vinegar, and a thorough rinse.
I’ve also got many Scottish or Shetland wool on cones! My procedure is to wind from cone onto a very large swift (or other yarn holder device) to create a large hank. Then tie off hank in 4 or 6 places. Entire thing gets submerged into large sink of warm soapy water. Soak 15 mins. Remove drain letting water go down. Replace warm soapy water without disturbing skein. (I use cheap dish detergent for this not Eucalan which preserves oils). After the yellow water no longer appears in soapy mix, replace with plain water, to rinse. Repeat until water is clear.
Thank you. This is really useful! I have always wondered how to treat yarn I’m reusing after frogging. Simply saying wash to remove kinks isn’t enough information for me to tackle with any confidence!
This was a very informative article. I am sharing it with my fabulous knitting group .
Very helpful information!!
Your column has come at a perfect time. I have both ski and cone of Harrisville design yarn that I’m knitting into a sweater. I applied mathematics to the cost of the cones and it is a similar cost as a skeins. My thought process was to incorporate any leftover threads into a lightweight wool blanket.
Both your column and the comments have been enlightening!
YES. This is such a great article. Years ago I worked in a yarn store, and we had what we THOUGHT was a great idea. It was a swatch wall, where we had some of the most popular yarns put up in cones. Then we hung scissors and encouraged people to wind off some yarn for swatching. Very quickly we saw the error of our ways when the staff knit up little sample swatches from the cones. We then added a HUGE note explaining that this was great for playing with they yarn and getting a feel for it, but it would not swatch up the same as the yarn they would buy.
Ah well. It seemed like a good idea at the time. If only we had Jillian and MDK back then. 🙂 You are, as always, the bomb!!
Wow, thanks for sharing your insights with us. I have just started to purchase yarn on a cone. I had no idea that the same yarn skeined and on a cone could be so different.
I’ve knit several sweaters with coned yarn. I swatched and washed the swatches, then knit the unwashed yarn at the gauge that I wanted. The first time was a little scary, but the sweater was fine after washing.
Very helpful information!! Always fun reading my snippets!
I’m in the “wind off a measured hank and prewash” camp. Still only two ends to weave in, and it shows me what the yarn will *really* look and feel like.
Yarn on a cone seems to be having a moment, we’ve been talking about it in my knitting circle and I’ll certainly share this article with them. I wonder if this difference is routine, like with superwash yarns (unlikely I would guess) or yarns from a weaving supplier that also actively markets their cones to knitters? Any thoughts appreciated. Thanks for this info Jillian!
It could be because there has been a resurgence in machine knitting in the last few years, so more knitters have been looking for coned yarns. I do a bit of both hand knitting and machine knitting and some of my sweaters are a hybrid with some sections that are machine knit and others with lace, fair isle, or other textures, this is common in Scotland where a machine knit body would often be combined with a hand knitted yoke. This is when swatching both your hand and machine knit gauge – both washed and unwashed becomes very important! I keep a notebook with squared paper beside me as I work.
This is fascinating—thank you for sharing! I have had a gorgeous green tweed cone of yarn. Who knew coned yarn was better for machine knitting? It looks so regal sitting on that cone!
There’s been a recent lively discussion of this issue in one of my Ravelry forums. I always thought I’d skein and wash until I saw a link to the J&S blog. I still may want to do the extra work. Thanks for great illustrative photos.
Great information, Jillian, thank you for doing this exploration. I’ll share your findings with my guild.
Does this apply to Ito yarn, which comes on a cone? I am making a marled scarf with two strands from Cecelia Campochiaro’s class.
I have the same question about Ito yarn for a Cecilia Compchiaro Wriley shawl. Might abandon the project if I have to “treat” the yarn before knitting!
I made that scarf and it blocked beautifully. No need to pre-wash.
Really valuable advice! Thank you!
Thank you! I’m about to dive into my first cone, and appreciate this article!
The oils on cone yarn can also make the colors seem more dull, so I check with the same yarn on skeins for color choices before ordering the cone.
Yes I have some grey & white marked Shetland in a cone, but it appears tan & grey until wound off into hanks, washed out all the oils. The water is SO dirty but everything comes out and I have grey & white (natural sheep’s white). So pretty!
WOW!!!! What a great article….thanks. You’ve really opened my eyes to lots of questions I’ve had about coned yarns. I’d always noticed the difference in size but had not investigated WHY . I’ll definitely feel more confident about using cone yarns now. :->)
Fascinating and useful–thank you, Jillian!
Who knew? Now I know! Thanks for an interesting, informative article!
I have noticed this about the yarn on cones, especially when doing a color project where some of the colors are on cones, and some you can’t get on cones, so you use the same brand and type of yarn, but in skeins. I get what you’re saying about washing and skeining it, but there’s something so joyous about knitting from a cone when you can!
wow! what a great article. Fun facts that could scare the daylights out of me, for sure. In the future I will beware. Thank you
Great article!!! And in my eyes YOU ARE a fancy fiber artist!
Great public service announcement. I have been considering buying yarn on cones, but may hold off. Your columns are always amazingly helpful. Thank you!
Thank you! What a well timed article. I was, just this weekend, admiring 3 lovely cones (Holst) that are so pretty on the shelf but calling out to me, as they rest, to Do Something with them! I feel much less intimidated with your article’s help! The scarf I have in mind can now make its way to my needles :-}
I’ve never purchased yarn from a cone because I thought it was for weavers only and now I’m glad that I haven’t
Such a treat to read your articles, Jillian. Visions of a yarn gingerman running in its own made my day!
I have knitted with coned yarn for as long as I have been a weaver – over fifty years. I skein the yarn, soak in warm or lukewarm water with soap or detergent without squeezing or rubbing, rinse in water of the same temp, spin out in washer (only spin, no rinse) and hang to dry. I want the oil out of the yarn but I don’t want the yarn felted.
Hi Susan Kunze, How difficult is it to then wind into balls from your self-made skeins? When you wash the coned yarn, does it get too tangled to wind using a swift and ball winder?
Thank you. I always knew there was a difference between cone and loose yarn and now I know why and how to deal with it.
This is a real eye opener. I wasn’t aware of why some of the wool is easy and nice to work with. Knitters take your time to feel the texture of the wool. I use cones from time back and most of them are perfect. Thank for letting us know.
This is interesting. I was given a cone of yarn that I will never use. I am interested in selling it. It came from Peru where the friend who gave it to me was visiting. She knows nothing about yarn and I don’t want to hurt her feelings. Any idea where I can sell it?
You could try e-bay, or Etsy, there are lots of listings for destash yarns on both.
I need more information. Where might I find it?
Really good info! As long as I have been knitting, I’ve never seen a comparison like this. Thanks!!
What a lot of work you did on these cones and yarn. Well done
Thanks! Very helpful.
this is so timely! Just got a bunch of Jaggerspun on cones as they just went out of business. Beautiful, beautiful yarn and the cones were so enticing as they were cheaper than the skeins that they also had for sale it says “waxed” on the label, not oiled. I am imagining I treated the same way?
I was fortunate to take a weaving class at Harrisville last spring-it was delightful! Anyway-we were advised to give our finished pieces a hand wash with Dawn or something similar to remove the oils. After rinsing you can do a traditional blocking with wool
Wash if you want.
Great article. I am knitting a cardigan with coned yarn right now. Before I washed my swatch I was doubtful I would use the yarn at all. My stitches were so wonky (my knitting is usually very even) and lots of space between. Once washed it was beautiful.
Thanks I loved this article
Technically I knew all of this but seeing it in pictures and explained so beautifully it made everything so much clearer. Being a knitter in my 70’s I will go for the hanks and spit splice but back when my hands had more energy I would go for the cones and save a bit of money! There is something so cathartic about making a hank of yarn from a cone, soaking it and hanging to dry. It just starts the sweater out in a completely different way. By the time you have gauge swatched and blocked this freshly washed yarn it feels like an old friend and knitting with it is even more satisfying!
I love your content! Thank you for sharing your wisdom and experience. I’m so glad I took the time to read it!
Happy Knitting!
Thank you so much for this article. I recently purchased some coned yarn with mohair in it that I was told would bloom with knitting. I will definitely do two swatches as you recommended.
Great information ! Thank you ☺️
G.
As a hand- and machine-knitter, I’ve learned to swatch coned yarns at different gauges (noting needle size or machine’s stitch size), then wash and measure finished gauge of the fabric I like best. This process is fast and easy on the machine, but requires more of an investment of time by hand. I re-use the yarn from the swatches.
By hand, you’d want to try going 2 needle sizes up from either the recommended needle size or what you’d estimate by eye. After washing the more loosely knitted swatch, you may want to try another swatch or 2 to get the washed gauge you like best before investing time in the whole garment.
I prefer not to make a skein, wash it, wind it, then knit unless the cone is too large/cumbersome to manage for the hand-knit project, or the unwashed yarn is unpleasant to knit by hand. Machines are useful for inelastic yarns or fussy techniques that I find less fun to do by hand.
Perfect timing! Having just woven in 100+ ends on a granny square cardi, I’m looking longingly at cones. Your creative warning about swelling after wet-blocking “stand up and run away on its own like the gingerbread man”, will stick in my mind!
Or…you can wash it first, which I do when I want to use my stash of Highland or Shetland from cones in my tapestry weaving. Wind it on a swift, make a skein(s) and wash as you would for a completed piece. Let it dry and, voila, a yarn that looks very much like a Highland or Shetland knitting skein. Then swatch and figure out the guage for knitting. (I used to live in NH and have collected – well lots – of Harrisville yarn on visits and during classes. I miss it.)
FYI – While woven fabric gets washed and blooms nicely, tapestry doesn’t get washed – so the yarn needs to be prepared before weaving.
Holy cow — this piece is super helpful!
Shetland, as in Shetland from the Shetland Isles, comes on cones, too. The gauge is pretty much the same. And it is wonderful not to have all those ends to work in.
This article is exactly why I wash and block swatches whenever I knit — on the machine or by hand.
And by the way, you don’t need yarn on cones to machine knit. You can just roll up your favorite skein and go for it!
wow! Thanks for all that!!!!
Wow! That was a lot! I’ve been tempted to buy cone yarn; now I’m glad I haven’t wasted dozens of hours knitting something that might’ve been “just ok”.
It’s nice to read a pure yarn post these days. Thanks.
For anyone in the UK or Europe who uses coned yarn from Woolyknit, I have checked with them today and they confirmed that their yarn is ‘clean’ and does not need washing.
I’m relieved as I bought several cones at Yarndale last weekend and thought I was going to be very busy skeining and washing!