Travel
Postcard from Chautauqua
Dear Kay,
What follows is what happened when I spent a week at Chautauqua Institution, the place south of Buffalo founded in 1874, where 100,000 people come every summer to do, we discovered, everything under the sun.
The players: Me. My sister Buffy.
We planned this thing for months, having wanted to visit Chautauqua for at least a decade.
We scoured the listings for classes, honing our schedule like a fine piece of marble. I thought we had sculpted a dense, rich, meaningful array of stuff.
But then we got to Chautauqua, and this is what was actually available during Week 3 of their nine-week season.
I don’t even know why I’m trying to capture this completely overwhelming week, but here we go. It was a place that felt old, new, cared for, open to anybody who wants to be there, rare.
Faced with that astonishing set of programs, Buffy and I gave up and just started walking. We immediately came upon this:
It’s a bookstore. Shaped like an octagon. Run by the Chautauqua Literary and Scientific Circle, the oldest book club in the country, now in its 151st year. We of course joined and lost our minds with joy about this.
That’s Alumni Hall in the back, where the CLSC lives.
The Poetry Room is unlike any other poetry room I have seen.
There are 150 banners created by the Chautauqua Literary and Scientific Society. Needless to say, the banners are a big deal.
The first season of Chautauqua was on the shore of the lake, in tents like this, in 1874.
It is hard to overstate the canvasness of this tent. We had a blow one day that would have been really something had we been in this flappy, gappy housing.
The grounds are full of houses, condos, boarding houses, grand “cottages,” and all kinds of architecture.
These two houses are maybe six inches apart.
Occasional vistas are pretty dreamy.
There is a vibe of people watching out for each other. Children wander with no fear.
No golf carts allowed except for staff use, which I think shows impressive restraint in this age of golf cart fever. And the thousands of cars are parked away from the grounds, another sign of mutual interest in making the grounds peaceful and safer.
The Ampitheater was the site of daily lectures, concerts, performances, and steady knitting.
There is no shortage of plaques and markers at Chautauqua.
The knitters always find each other.
The Methodist House Porch was lit. We ran out of rocking chairs. New knitters and crocheters were born.
Every morning I drew landscapes with charcoal, two hours of sitting and thinking about light and dark and basically covering myself in smudges. It felt good to be utterly new at something. Our instructor, Pooja Campbell, revealed the secrets of drawing in a way that was not overwhelming. She was great.
The Hall of Philosophy had a week-long series of meditation speakers. Which meant at two o’clock every day, I sat in this astonishing pavilion and fell soundly asleep, four times in a row.
The mosaics in the floor are being restored. Hi Jane Addams! We named a sweater for you!
Two more bike crashes during the week. At least we know, right? First comes knowledge, then comes wisdom.
New upholstery is coming for the furniture at the Miller Cottage, the first building at Chautauqua, built for President Grant’s visit in 1875. Those are Edison bulbs in the light fixtures because Thomas Edison lived here.
There’s all sorts of history stuff like that at Chautauqua. You go to somebody’s house and they say, “This is the chair Eleanor Roosevelt sat in.”
On my last night, I walked up to the School of Art to retrieve my smudgy charcoal drawings.
The School of Art is a beehive. The studios were busy, despite the hour, artists late at night, happy as clams.
And the opera house was still vibrating from the workshop performance earlier that day of the new opera version of George Saunders’s Lincoln in the Bardo. The author was in the row ahead of us, and it had to have been quite a moment for him to see his novel turn into song.
I turned a corner to find my spirit animal, Kermit of my heart, hanging out in front of the ceramics studio.
These are mostly postcards of the places of Chautauqua, but I have to say, the chance encounters and conversations all week long are what I remember most. The other night, back in Nashville, I sat next to a young guy at the first preview performance of the new Dolly Parton musical, and we started talking during the intermission. He was from Buffalo, and when I said I’d just been to Chautauqua, his eyes lit up. “Chautauqua! I miss it so much! I need to get back as soon as I can.” We compared notes on the musical, sorting out which songs needed to go.
I had to laugh, because I’d been sort of sad not to be at Chautauqua anymore. But there I was, having one of those Chautauqua moments, right here at home. And on Sunday afternoon, at our knitting party at MDK, I had that feeling again. How good it feels to be with people! What a relief!
Love,
Ann
We have friends with cottages there. I want to go so badly. I’m sure I would never want to leave
I live 40 minutes away and have visited many times. ❤️
I enjoyed your camp story. The history and the present side of it seemed a perfect balance.
I live 45 minutes away and get there once in a while. It’s a fantastic place. I like going off season when one can really enjoy the ambiance.
Thanks for your lovely post. Chautauqua is a place I’ve thought about from time to time but never too seriously. It looks like you had a wonderful time—I may need to give it a go.
my favorite place in the whole world is that area. I miss it so much.
This is my favorite area in the whole world. I miss there so much
Oh, Chautauqua! Memories flood and my heart expands in my chest. Cousins and friends gathered in Bemus Point, found it hard to leave the front porch overlooking the lake, walked the grounds of Chautauqua, listened, learned, loved. Thank you for taking me back.
What a sweet photo of you and your sister. <3
Lovely visit to Chautauqua with you. Really enjoyed this
Thank you
LOVE this! My husband and I were married at the Hall of Philosophy about 20 years ago. Chautauqua is magical…
Really enjoyed this post. Thank you for the Kermit moment. It has been awhile since he has been mentioned and I am hesitant to ask about him. He is much loved by all of us.
Thank you, Ann! A new destination to add to my bucket list.
Fellow Nashville dweller here… So happy that you had the quintessential magical Chautauqua experience. I grew up spending whole summers there and still go often. (Heading there on Friday actually! A floor weaving class in my future. )
Our house is the one with the bowling green for a front yard and a lovely view of the lake, so you can find it next time you go. There’s always room on the front porch for a fun visitor no matter which Wood family member is at the house. Stop by. Knit a bit. They’ll probably offer you a glass of wine. ❤️
This post is so full of life and positivity! It was a joy to read. Thanks for sharing.
Just came back from there. A place like no other.
I love the idea of doing this with my sister! May have to start planning now. It all sounds so lovely. Thanks for the share.
What a discovery! This looks like heaven on Earth to me and goes directly onto my bucket list, if and when I can travel to the US again.
This is exactly what I am feeling about my first Shakerag in June. I’m still swooning over it. I am also a camp councilor alumni, and those feelings are near and dear to me too. Enjoy the bliss from Chautauqua. I have added to my list of places to experience.
I just returned from week 4 at Chautauqua. You described it beautifully. My friends live there year round. It is a magical place.
I would love to go there. This sounds like a place I would never want to leave.
Ann, I love how you write. You are the best describer and capturer of people and place. I feel like I’ve been to Chautauqua which you have confirmed is a pretty amazing place. I’ve always been curious about it. Thank you so much.
It looks like a wonderful experience!
Lincoln In The Bardo… OPERA????
Another wonderful “MDK on the Road” post! I’m glad you and your sister had a great experience, and thank you for the Chautauqua information…I had no idea their class offerings were so varied and I “might” have gone down a rabbit hole this morning looking at the schedule.
I now have a new goal in life. With my sister! And to sit in the chair Eleanor sat in!!
Thanks for sharing your visit. Enjoyed it very much. Your pics and descriptions made me feel like I was there. The trees, the lake, the architecture – So pretty! Never knew about it (nothing like it here on the arid West Coast), but now I want to go!
What a detailed, wonderful description of what happens when we encounter Chautauqua and its history! It is a relaxing and exhilarating, creative and natural space. It has felt timely the times I have gone. With your essay, I wish I had gone this summer. You really did it justice with this post.
I gasped and hollered reading this, and felt SO COMFORTED that y’all had longed to go for a decade before you went, because I’ve longed for some years myself, and that made it feel more like it’s still in the cards. Beautiful, beautiful, thank you so much for sharing. What absolute joy.
Loved hearing about your experience, and, of course, the pictures. Thanks for sharing.
I’ve been going to Chautauqua since I was a child; we’re a legacy family with (I think) 6 generations of Chautauquans. It is so special to be introducing my own children now (3 and 6) along with their cousins. We went last summer and they’ve been asking to go back (we’ll get there next year). Welcome to the club!
Oh my oh my, many thanks for sharing,so inspiring, I think I’ll plan to go. Hugs
Travel on,
Terri
I go. Not to art or music classes but to the lectures and discussions and I come home with information leaking out my ears. .
There is always a project in my hands though.
And I miss it every year when I leave and I start vibrating getting ready to go a month before.
Having just read what George Saunders had to say about his Chautauqua experience (in his Story Club newsletter), can I just tell you how much I positively adore that you were sitting right behind him at that pivotal moment?
Envious! Always wanted to go. Haven’t been to your Assembly in some time either. Miss my Beersheba Springs days. I need to renew my efforts to visit as many Chatauquas as I can.
What a great article about a great experience. I am jealous
Thanks for sharing moments from your trip.Trips like these fill up our wells. I got a kick out of the bicycle crash posting. Today I am headed to the most perfect raspberry field with two of my best friends. We will catch up on each other as much as we pick! A beautiful summer remembrance to enjoy in the dead of winter….
Great letter and pictures! My husband and I were there Week 1. One of the highlights was. getting my King book signed by Pulitzer author Eig. It’s the happiest place on earth for us . Hope to run into you next time.
Color me jealous. I have dreamed of a week at Chautauqua for years!
Must admit that I was completely unfamiliar with Chautauqua until I read this—and now I am super intrigued!
What beautiful memories you have stirred. Chautauqua is a place apart, a place to explore ideas, to learn, to gather, to treasure nature and the arts. And the Athenaeum! My husband’s and my first date was a Chautauqua concert, and he took me back to that spot to propose four years later.
Glad you had fun! I need to check this out.
Wow! Putting on my bucket list of places to visit.
My brother played in the Chautauqua symphony every summer for most of his adult life, so I used to go visit every summer, for over 20 years. It was the highlight of my summer. Now that my brother is gone, one of the many things I miss about him is getting to see him at Chautauqua, working very hard and enjoying every minute of it.
It’s really hard to explain what chautauqua is, and why it is so special but you did a great job! Thank you!
I hope you got to go into the library. Peter used to go up to the second floor for his lunch breaks from rehearsal and sit on the balcony, which had a delightful view of Bestor Plaza.
Did you hear the story that Edison set up and tested his first electric light bulbs at the Atheneum? Did you sit on a rocking chair on the porch of that grand old hotel? On rainy days my sister-in-law used to take my nephews when they were small, to the hotel where she could find hallways for them to run around in, and various nooks and sitting rooms for them to hang out in…
Anyway, thank you for giving me that nostalgic trip to a beloved place.
Janet
PS. One night my sister-in-law was at an opera that my brother was playing in, and sitting behind her was Ruth Bader Ginsberg. That’s the kind of place Chautauqua is.
Lovely, lovely, lovely. Thank you.
I have never heard of Chautauqua before (shame on my art professors!) and now need to add yet another adult summer camp to my wishlist…. Along with Shetland Wool Week, NashFest, Shakerag….
Here’s another adult summer camp experience for you!
Common Ground on the Hill Traditions Weeks
https://www.commongroundonthehill.org/experience/programs-and-workshops/traditions-weeks/what-are-traditions-weeks
I love the glimpse of visible mending on the knee of your jeans! 😉
I have a couple of comfortable tops that I don’t want to discard despite holes in sleeves — I’ve gathered a few fabric scraps and embroidery threads, and I’m about to begin my own exploration of that wonderful craft, with Natalie Chanin’s The Geometry of Hand-Sewing as my stitch guide.
I spent 4 days at Chautauqua many years ago and joined the knitting group on that Methodist House porch. 🙂
It’s like stepping back in time. No cars, no rushing about, lots of space for quiet appreciation of the peace that surrounds you. Lectures that make you think, people joyously being their best selves. Magical.
I’ve heard the name Chautauqua before, but had not idea this was a thing, and now of course I want to go…it looks amazing! Thank you for sharing and so glad you finally got to go!
Love that feeling. It keeps you going when things look dark. I remember and tlhen I think how it was a foretaste of what Heaven must be like:).