Inspiration
Making It: Knitwear at The Met’s “Superfine” Exhibition
It was pouring rain the day I visited The Metropolitan Museum of Art. One of those slow, heavy New York downpours that makes your umbrella feel like it’s just there for looks and not function.
But there I was, weaving through a sea of umbrellas and tourist backpacks, determined to see Superfine: Tailoring Black Style, their newest fashion exhibition—and one of my most anticipated MET shows in years.
Inspired by Monica L. Miller’s book, Slaves to Fashion: Black Dandyism and the Styling of Black Diasporic Identity, the exhibition traces the history and artistry of Black tailoring and dandyism across centuries, from the clothing worn by enslaved people without their consent to the fashion choices made once African Americans were finally able to dress themselves.
It’s a sweeping, emotional, and deeply considered show that moves through the complexities of identity, resistance, and self-expression.
The garments on display were stunning. But of course, I was scanning for the knitwear.
Let’s start with two machine-knit (or knit-adjacent) pieces. I know, I know. But they were too good not to mention.
First up: a piece by the late Virgil Abloh, the visionary designer behind Off-White and the artistic director of Louis Vuitton menswear. The show wouldn’t have been complete without honoring him.
One of the sweaters from the Louis Vuitton Autumn/Winter 2021–2022 collection caught my eye. At first glance, it appeared to be a classic knit cardigan—but upon closer inspection, I was shocked to discover it was actually shearling, shaved to resemble ribbing. It was clever and completely mesmerizing. What I would give to spend ten minutes alone with that garment, trying to unlock all its construction secrets.
Next: a collaboration between Ralph Lauren and Morehouse College, a historically Black institution.
I remember being skeptical when the partnership was first announced back in 2019—it’s a fine line between appreciation and appropriation. But this collection passed the test with flying colors. I was thrilled to see one of the sweaters in person. Technically menswear, yes, but this sweater is one of my white whales. I would love to own it someday.
Now, let’s talk handmade. The “Probably American Skullcap,” dated around 1968, was crocheted in polychrome cotton. The colors are vibrant and the construction appears to be slip-stitched and joined in the round rather than a spiral construction. And can we talk about this tension?! Absolutely perfect.
I also loved the crochet belts from Wales Bonner, thoughtfully added to the sharply tailored suits in the collection.
Inspired by traditional Rasta belts and the colors of the Pan-African flag—red, green, and black—these small details breathed new life into classic suiting silhouettes. It was a subtle, powerful nod to the designer’s heritage, seamlessly woven into a contemporary design.
There was also a hand-knit golf cap on display that I completely fell for. It could have been made yesterday or fifty years ago, and I would’ve believed either.
I searched high and low for a placard explaining its origin but found nothing. I like to imagine a crafty patron quietly slipping it onto a mannequin on their way through the exhibit—an anonymous act of fiber art rebellion.
But my favorite garment of all? A shirt from the 1970s with crochet inserts replacing the seams. It wasn’t flashy—it was quietly brilliant. The inserts would have given the illusion that the shirt was floating on the body.
I’ve always had a soft spot for little details like this. I love the way a crocheted seam on a cut-and-sew garment creates a subtle juxtaposition. The strict tailoring pairing perfectly with a subtle handmade touch. It’s the kind of surprise that makes me smile every time I see it.
Overall, the Superfine exhibition is incredible. And while I always wish there were more knit and crochet pieces in shows like this, the fiber works that were included were rich with meaning, texture, and story.
If you’re in New York, the exhibition runs through October 26. I highly recommend seeing it for yourself.
And if you want a closer look at the non-knitwear pieces, you can watch my full walkthrough on YouTube! Bring a friend and notebook, there’s no better way to spend a rainy afternoon.
This, like all your other articles for MDK, was a pleasure to read. Your attention to detail brought the show to life. Thank you.
Thank you for taking me along to the Met! I’ve enjoyed so many visits there over the years while my husband was on business trips. I love the shearling sweater and the collaboration with Morehouse and Ralph Lauren! Beautiful examples of creativity and art!
I agree with you – the pieces you shared were indeed very special – thank you for sharing these photos and your perspective!
I believe the shirt seams joined this way is called “fagotting”, it is an embroidery technique, not crochet. https://poppykettle.com/2012/02/21/101-fagotted-seams/
Oh you might be right! See this is why I need to go back on a weekday when I can really press my face up to the glass to examine every stitch! And now I’m going to fall down an embroidery rabbit hole, lol.
Much nicer to see it through your eyes than through a crowd! Thanks!
Fascinating! Thanks for sharing.
I saw this show when I was in NYC earlier this month, and had the same reaction to that shearling sweater! I actually said “omigod” out loud (I was alone) when I realized it was shearling.
It’s like I’m taking the tour with you—really love seeing it all with you, can we go have lunch in the cafe now?
Yes please! Or the rooftop before it closes in September 🙂
Oh definitely. Wonderful exhibition then lunch in the cafe! Loved this walk out of the rain, thank you Samantha.
Wonderful monologue of what sounds like a must-see collection. Thanks!
Thanks for this walk through. Enjoyed viewing the pieces with the details you added.
Fantastic! If I can’t make it to NY, at least I can look forward to the catalog, and of course the Miller book. Thanks for bringing this to us.
i love your take on this incredible exhibit! thanks for spotlighting the fiber art
I was exhausted when I went into this exhibition about a month ago, and overwhelmed by the size and quality of the exhibition. I just couldn’t do it justice. I’m looking forward to watching your You Tube tour to honor this incredible show.
Thanks for allowing me to visit the exhibit with you and through your eyes, loved the YouTube video!
I follow Cecilia Nelson-Hurt (I think she used to be @CeciKnitstheWorld) on IG and she had some amazing photos from the exhibit, which she attended wearing the most gorgeous duster.
I’m visiting my daughter in NYC in August and this will be a perfect place to wander and stay cool!
I thought the same thing!!! I loved it so much
What an amazing collection of creativity! The crochet and sewn top is A work of wonder! Thank you for A snippet of the collection!
Can’t wait to see more of this exhibit- thanks!
Thank you! I appreciate your perspective on it and now plan to go.