Consider this post a concise “How I Did It” for my sweater.
How you work out the finer points is—of course and always—up to you. That’s my way of saying every knitter
can be a modifier of patterns. As Elizabeth Zimmermann famously put it, “You are the boss of your knitting.” Or as Dr. Fronkensteen shrieked, “IT COULD WORK!”
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Pick your size.
Lucky for us, Jen’s excellent pattern does all the heavy lifting. Figure out which cardigan size you’d knit for the best fit and that’s the size you’ll follow. (Yardage note: For my cropped, 3/4 sleeve pullover
, I used half the number of skeins of Big Wool I would have needed for a cardigan. If you’d like full-length sleeves, you’ll need one more than half. If you want the hem to fall to your waist or past it, you’ll need one ball more per 4 inches of body length.)
Next determine your preferred measurement from waistband to underarm. I took a sweater in my wardrobe that I consider a “standard” fit with no ease in the arm opening and I measured it from where the sleeve meets the body to where I wanted the hem of my sweater to fall. I also measured myself from the middle of my bust to where I wanted the hem of the sweater to fall. I compared the two numbers to determine the target number of inches to knit before I would join the body to the sleeves.
I wanted the sleeves to be shorter in length than the sleeves that corresponded to the body size I chose, so I cast on two more stitches than specified for my size and omitted the rounds of plain knitting that follow the wristband ribbing. I worked the increase rounds as written. By the time I was through, the sleeve was the stitch count I needed for my size and the length I liked.
To work Sand Stitch in the round (rather than flat as indicated in the pattern), every other round is all purl stitches (whereas working flat, every WS row is all knit stitches). I knit the predetermined inches of body. Then, continuing to work in the round, I joined the sleeves to the body
, placing markers as directed.
Yoke and Neckband
I followed the pattern’s directions for shaping the yoke
, but I disregarded directions for shaping the front neck. Instead I kept on decreasing at the raglan markers at the rate established for my size until I had 68 stitches left. I worked five rounds of 1 x 1 ribbing to start the neckband, then to draw in the neckband so it would lie flat, I worked the raglan decreases on the sixth and eighth round of the neckband (52 stitches remained). I worked one more round, then I bound off in rib.
I followed Jen’s instructions for sewing up the underarm, gave my new pullover a quick steam blocking, and I was done. Though Jen makes sewing the cardigan’s pockets on
look like fun, I didn’t have to . . . though, come to think of it, there is yarn leftover for a sweet pocket. Hmmmm
(Did you just make A yummy sound?)