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The long tail cast-on method, as shown in MDK’s Skill Set: Beginning Knitting, is a terrific all-purpose cast on method. It’s neat and tidy-looking, and it’s got a bit of stretch, which makes it very handy for socks and mittens and hats. 

Once you’ve got that mastered, it’s worth adding a couple more techniques to your repertoire, for other applications. Two other very useful methods are the cable cast on, and the backwards loop.

The Cable Cast On

The cable cast-on—so-named because the edge looks like a twisted rope—is handsome and substantial, a little bit firm without being inflexible. It’s a terrific start for garments and blankets, the sorts of places where you want the edge to be a little bolder, perhaps, and to hold its shape over time.

It also has a major benefit over the long tail method: it doesn’t need that pesky long tail, so there’s no need to worry about running short!


This method needs two needles, in contrast to the long-tail method. You’re going to create stitches by doing a bit of almost-knitting.

Start with a slip knot, and place that on your left needle.  

Put the right needle into the slip knot, as if you would for knitting, wrap the yarn around the tip of the right needle, and pull it through, just like a normal knit stitch. 

This is where it’s different. Leave that slip knot on the left needle, and stretch the new loop out a bit. Then tilt the tip of the right needle to the back a bit, so that you’re putting a half twist in that new loop …

and place it onto the left needle. Don’t pull it really tight, leave a little slack in that new stitch.

You’ve got 2 stitches. Perfect.


Put the tip of the right needle between the first two stitches on the left needle. Not into a stitch, but between them. If there’s a bit of slack, still, give the yarn a gentle tug to snug everything up, so that the needle is held between the stitches.

Wrap the yarn around the tip of the right needle, and pull it through, just like a normal knit stitch.

Leaving the previously created stitch on the left needle, continue as you did for the first: stretch the new loop out a bit, make a half turn and place it onto the left needle. 

Don’t pull it tight, leave a little slack in that new stitch so that it’s easy to get the needle into position for the next stitch.

Repeat, until you have as many stitches as you need, keeping that last one a tiny bit relaxed.

The Backwards Loop Method

This one is very fast and very easy. Like the cable method, there’s no need for a long tail. The challenge with this one is that the stitches you make aren’t yet anchored or very stable, which can make them a little hard to knit from; as a result, I don’t recommend it if you need to cast on a lot of stitches.

It’s absolutely perfect, however, if you need to add a small number to a project you’re already working. With a top-down sweater, or a mitten thumb, there’s always a step where you have to close up a small gap by casting on a few stitches. This method is perfect for that, as it doesn’t create a ridge or lump.


Start with a slip knot.


Then just make stitches by creating a twisted loop:

You can twist it either way, whichever feels most comfortable for you.

And there are a bunch of different hand positions people use—I find it works well for me if I wrap it around my thumb and put the needle it. 

There are no wrong answers here, as long as the yarn crosses over itself at the base of the stitch.

The edge that results is a little more subtle than the cable method.

First Bonus Tip!

After my warning above about the stitches maybe not being entirely stable, there’s actually a nifty fix for this: just add an extra twist to the stitch before you place it on the needle. I still wouldn’t use this method for more than about 10 or 15 stitches, but it does make them behave themselves a little better.

The edge that results is tidy and neat:

Next Month: A Second Bonus Tip!

We’ll talk more about increases in a future column, but I won’t be spoiling any surprises by telling you that the backwards loop cast-on makes a really great increase! If you need to add a new stitch in the middle of row, try one of the versions of this cast on, with or without the extra twist.

Save it for later. Here’s how to tuck this article into your MDK account with one click.

About The Author

Kate Atherley is a teacher, designer, author and technical editor. She’s also the publisher of Digits & Threads, a magazine all about Canadian fibre and textile arts.


  • For a long time now I’ve avoided starting with a slip knot, whichever type of cast on I use. For a cabled cast on, I just make a loop over the needle for the first stitch. I do make a slip knot when starting a long tail cast on for a firm beginning, but I slip this off the needle before I start knitting. I just don’t like that inevitable little hard lump that a slip knot leaves.

    Also, when making a long tail cast on for a large number of stitches, I use two balls of yarn as I’m hopeless at estimating the required amount of yarn. I either run short or waste a long length. It does result in an extra couple of ends to weave in, but I don’t mind that.

    • If using a cable cast on just cast on an extra two or three stitches more than you need and when you get to the end of the first row just drop them off and they will unravel leaving no starter slip knot. It does need to be more than just the actual slip knot that gets dropped as it won’t unravel if dropped on its own.

    • Another knotless wonder method is to grab the yarn stretched between the thumb and forefinger with the righthand needle, doesn’t matter which way, then proceed with the CO. Two stitches achieved. Happy knitting.

    • These are great tips!

  • Love that extra twist idea! Kate is such a gem, thank you for this!

  • I’m logged in but the bookmark symbol doesn’t appear

    • Spoke too soon! It appeared as soon as I posted the first comment

  • I used to have to re-read and re-memorize the steps for provisional caston every time I had to do it, and for some reason could never get the crochet caston to unravel. Fifteen years ago all that changed when Kay wrote about using backward loop to enable the No-Sew Mitered Blanket:

    That was my salvation, enabling an addiction to log cabin and mitered squares. (I do have to try to make the loops a bit tighter than my normal tension, or ktbl when picking up to firm them up.) But only 2? steps even a moron could recall – thank you Kate and Kay!

  • Thank you! I have never seen cast on instructions made so clear! I have used the long tail cast on for over 50 years now because I can do it in my sleep, and I have never been able to figure out any of the other types. I will definitely be using these two examples in my next projects.

  • For the cable cast on, is there a way to cast on this way for 1×1 rib?

  • I will try the cable cast on with next project I start. Could you do this with top down socks?

    • It might not be so good for the top of socks. You need a lot so stretch to get the socks over your heel. Maybe if you cast on very loosely? Mind you, I haven’t tried this…. Maybe someone else can speak from experience.

  • Great tips!

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