A Knitter's Weekend
A Knitter’s Weekend: Northern England
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This spring I was lucky to head back to Northern England for another textile tour with my traveling partner Janine Bajus.
We went to Cumbria, the Lake District, and Yorkshire, visiting some of the same spots we went to last year plus a bunch of new ones.
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We visited Susan Crawford. External Link. Opens in new window. again for a class where we were greeted with a new studio and teaching space. Susan also has a couple of new yarns, a BFL yarn in two weights, and a Lonk. External Link. Opens in new window. sock yarn. I succumbed to both even though I haven’t knit my yarns from last year. Many of us fell for her new scarf pattern Hubbard and came home with kits.
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Another repeat visit was Ninthwaite Grange. Maria, Zoë, and John are still hard at work changing the way designers, knitters, and farmers think about British wools. In the past year they have partnered with several farmers, designers, and even the park service to design single breed (even single farm) yarns and accessories.
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They are developing more products made with local British breeds to sell through their own business The Wool Library,. External Link. Opens in new window. including finished garments and handwoven wool yardage. They are also sourcing more breeds from more farmers—the locks in the top photo are, left to right, Gotland, Teeswater, Herdwick, and Castle Milk Moorit.
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We traveled north into the Lake District; this is the road to Keswick. I got little to no knitting done on this trip because I couldn’t quit just watching the scenery.
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Because fiber people tend to also have an affinity for stationery and art supplies, we visited the Derwent Pencil Museum. We learned about how graphite was first used in the Dales (to mark sheep), how pencils are made, how Derwent grew into one of the most beloved supplier of watercolor, pencils, pastels ,and other artists’ goodies. Special pencils helped soldiers in WWII (they had a map and a compass hidden in them).
Art supplies may have been purchased.
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If you are even close to Hawes, North Yorkshire, I highly recommend a visit to the Dales Countryside Museum. External Link. Opens in new window.. There are displays on farming, mining, local industries, and textiles, from prehistoric times to the present day.
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There is a big exhibit on the Terrible Knitters of Dent and the legendary stockings and gloves that were part of a cottage industry. “Terrible” used to mean “wonderful,” just like “sick” is apparently a good thing, or so say my kids.
The knitters of Dent used a particular type of knitting sheath and they had close to 100 on display at the museum, all beautifully crafted.
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Something I really appreciate when visiting the UK is that every museum and manor house has wonderfully conserved textiles, and there are many grants available to preserve and work in contemporary textile arts.
The Dales Museum had an exhibit of modern textile art that references and celebrates the history of textiles in the Dales, reimagining them through embroidery, weaving, needle point and knitting.
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We visited the Wensleydale Longwool Sheep Shop. External Link. Opens in new window. and gave a talk about Wensleydale sheep while having tea and scones. These were still warm.
Wensleydale yarn at this shop is much softer and silkier than Wensleydale yarn I’ve knit with in the U.S. The shop carries 90% their own Wensleydale yarns, and sells finished objects and spinning fiber along with their yarns.
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Nearby are the Castlerigg standing stones. Like most stone circles, no one is 100% sure what they were used for, but the setting is beautiful and a little eerie. I did whisper to the stones and asked if Jamie Fraser could come out to play in his kilt. No luck. I know, wrong stones and wrong country, but I had to try.
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If I had to choose one place from this trip that was the most inspiring I would choose Farfield Mill in Sedburgh, Cumbria. It’s an old textile mill that combines all of the creative things. They honor the history of the mill through detailed exhibits.
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We were lucky to have a talk from Marie Wallin about color and her career from designer to queen of the Rowan Magazine to having her own yarn line.
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Nineteen artists have studios in the mill. This one is Angela Bradley’s knitwear studio. There are printmakers, weavers, painters, spinners, ceramicists, and jewelers. All have work for sale and there is a gift shop that sells the work of even more local artists.
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The mill has four gallery spaces, with several different shows a year. The one that I spent the most time with was Verve: Tapestry Touring International. Tapestry Touring International is a non-profit group who encourages artists to work together creating small format tapestries on a theme. This year’s theme is Verve and the weavers are from the UK and New Zealand.
Farfield Mill is one of those places that has the most amazing contagious, creative energy. I left there with so many ideas for fiber work.
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Just outside of Grassington in Yorkshire is Gam Farm. External Link. Opens in new window., a farm dedicated to preserving and educating the public about animals on the Rare Breed Survival Trust list. The RBST maintains a list of animals in England in danger of extinction that is updated every year. Gam Farm raises rare breed sheep, goats, pigs, and cows, and sell yarn made from their rare breed sheep.
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Our last day in Yorkshire was a free day in York. We wandered the Shambles, visited the York Ghost Merchants, peeked at the Minster, had tea at Betty’s Café and Tea Room, and touched all the buttons at the legendary button shop Dutton’s for Buttons.
This was our last trip to Northern England for a bit and I will miss it. Next spring we’re off on a new adventure headed to the south of England, exploring from Bath to Penzance. If you are interested in information about the trip when it’s available, drop an email to je**@*************ys.com.
Several of the photos in this post were taken by Karen Melnick. External Link. Opens in new window., textile traveler extraordinaire.
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Oh trip of my dreams . That wendyslydale shopisgreat . Many years ago I was ther and wool so soft…not sure how it compares to bfl. These trip stops look so wonderful thanks for sharing places I did not know ! You are the best!
Loved this. You told me about places that, I’m ashamed to say, I didn’t know about. I will follow them up. I’m so glad that you enjoyed your trip and you will all be very welcome next Spring.
sue byrne
You and Janine Bajus are textile tour leaders extraordinaire
TERRIBLE trip!!
Love it
Gorgeous textiles and yarn.
Very tempted to take a tiki tour. I just might.
Makes my heart sing.
Christie.
Lovely. The pictures are awesome.
Oh, my I would love that trip! Such a great variety of fiber interests, I’d go nuts! That button shop is over the top and warm scones and tea, be still my heart! Not to mention the scenery and sheep…. I know I’d want to bring one home! Thanks for sharing your adventure!
Oh, that was lovely. Thank you. Those buttons! Locally, we are down to one tiny twirly rack of buttons.
Everything looks absolutely fabulous! The sheep, the wool, the fiber art, the old buildings…thanks for sharing your photos and stories. Love to see you and Janine with big smiles…and lambs.
What a wonderful trip to take as I drink my morning tea! Sigh.
Wow! What an inspiring trip. I want to visit each and every place you mentioned. Is there any way you would share your itinerary from this last trip? Thank you!
What a lovely tour! Thank you. That museum looks amazing!!
I enjoyed my trip with you to N. England, while having my morning coffee. I took notes to share with my knitting group coming tomorrow for our weekly get together. What beautiful colors! I’ll recommend you to them! Thanks! My daughter lives in East Lothian maybe we could make this trip !
Thank you for selling our lovely country so well Jillian . You’ve even come up with a couple of places that I haven’t been to yet. You went to all my favourite places xx
I love reading about your trips. I think it is wonderful there are grants for textiles.
Wonderful article! I would have swooned in the button shop, too many choices
Glad you love Northern England so much – from a Northern English lass. We have the best wool shops!!!
Jillian,
Well done with this piece of writing and pictures Yorkshire, Cumbria & the Lake District (Thanks Karen Melnick) Now working on your trips for next year 🙂
Back to it!
Jean
What a wonderful trip. Food for thought for my trip next year to the Shetlands.
One of the booths at a local farmers market sells yarn and textiles produced with wool from their Leicester Longwool sheep, which are considered a rare breed. Of course I had to buy some to try. The yarn has a beautiful shine to it. I would love to purchase one of their woven blankets for my bed, but can’t afford it right now. When we replace our bed in the next year ir so, I plan to do my best to convince my husband we need a wool blanket to go with the new bed.
There is another local farmer that specializes in rare breeds and has yarn produced from their sheep, but I haven’t been there yet because I know I’ll buy more than I need right now. Got to finish a few WIPs first.
All looks wonderful what a trip
Thankyou for this, I had no idea these places were in Cumbria, my son lives nearby therefore I feel a visit coming up
Look forward to hearing about your next trip
Having just returned from Cumbria I loved seeing these pictures. I visited a yarn shop in the Priest’s Mill, Caldbeck and was most impressed with the work done and purchased some yarn for “I don’t know what yet”.
What, pray tell, is a knitting sheath?
OMG! Derwent has a pencil museum? Be still my heart!
Sounds like a magnificent trip. I’ve spent time in the Lake District and the North, but it was before I took up knitting. Sounds like a return visit is needed.
Ooh — tour envy! Did you organize this tour? Or was it with someone else? I’d love a pointer to the planner if there was one.
What a DREAM trip… already on the Celtic-Journeys website and will sign up for a newsletter or whatever they have. I want to do EXACTLY the trip you just did, complete with the Derwent Pencil Museum and Marie Wallin! Thanks so much for sharing.
Derwent pencils are so utterly wonderful. Consider me jealous of this trip for everything, but especially Derwent.