Letters
Life With Wool: Perpetual Sunscreen and AC
Greetings from Maine!
I realize that the mere mention of wool right now might feel like I’m offering you another helping of turkey and stuffing at the end of Thanksgiving dinner. It’s July. Summer is at its height. Heatwaves abound. Who on earth wants to talk about wool?
Contrary to what many think, wool is an excellent companion during the summer months. Yes, those hefty sweaters are too much. That’s why they’re sound asleep in the closet.
Thanks to the miracle of modern spinning, weaving, and knitting technology, we get to enjoy far finer permutations of wool in T-shirts and tunics and tank tops and dresses and leggings and shorts and night shirts and socks and even bras and underwear. I’m a firm believer in all these incarnations, and I’m eagerly awaiting the arrival of a new wool swimsuit to complete my summer wool wardrobe…for now.
We have many reasons to love wool during the summer.
First and foremost, there’s insulation. We know what a good insulator wool is in the winter. But the insulation door swings both ways. It keeps warm things warm, and it keeps cold things cold. Think of that cooler you bring to the beach. Wool fibers act as barrier and buffer zone between your body and whatever the weather throws at you. In this era of extreme temperature swings and overzealous air conditioning, having an effective buffer zone is no joke.
But what are the fibers actually doing? This brings us to an indelicate but necessary subject of sweat. Our bodies are built to release moisture in hot weather in order to help us thermoregulate. Call it perspiration, call it dew, call it the gentle glistening of a life well lived.
This seems impossible to believe, but when we exert ourselves in extreme heat, our bodies are capable of releasing upwards of 3 liters of moisture per hour. That’s twelve cups of water. Per hour. Not only do we need to stay hydrated, but we also need to clothe ourselves in fibers that know what to do with all that moisture.
The normal prescription for hot weather is to wear plant fibers like cotton or linen. They’re superb at absorbing moisture. As they do so, the fibers spread the water molecules out along their surface so that they can evaporate—cooling our bodies in the process.
Excellent! That’s everything we need during a hot summer, right?
Historically, yes.
But today, we frequently find ourselves moving between two extremes: the great outdoors and the greatly air-conditioned indoors. Linen and cotton have only one setting: cool. Their internal AC won’t shut off if it detects colder air, leading to your body feeling even colder. The phrase “cotton kills” sounds dramatic, but there’s science behind the advice not to wear cotton on hiking expeditions that might involve sudden temperature changes.
Wool is similarly absorptive, but it moves moisture molecules further away from your body before storing them or releasing them into the environment. The evaporation happens on the outside, while the fibers trap still air, buffering your tender skin from the cold or any other slings and arrows the world’s HVAC systems may throw at you.
By keeping our dewy skin reasonably dry, wool creates an environment that’s hostile to the build-up of odor-causing bacteria. Which is to say, wool doesn’t just soak up sweat; it also keeps you smelling as fresh as a daisy.
There’s another superpower that wool brings to the table. Without any chemicals or sprays or treatments whatsoever, wool fibers absorb radiation across the entire ultraviolet spectrum, including the sun’s UVA and UVB rays. Wool is a perpetual sunscreen.
Depending on the color and thickness of the fabric, wool can provide a UPF, or ultraviolet protection factor, of 30 or higher. That cotton T-shirt or linen tunic, on the other hand, barely squeaks out a UPF of 5.
So not only does wool act as a dry towel and powerful deodorant, but it also provides built-in sunscreen. On more than one occasion, I’ve draped an airy wool scarf over my exposed skin when I can feel it getting hot. It’s not the same as a thick slather of sunscreen, but it’s something.
A whole industry of UF-protective clothing has sprouted up in recent years. You can find hats and shirts and swimsuits and Bermuda shorts and coverups and all sorts of outdoorsy summer things that have been specially treated to provide a UPF of 50 or higher.
But when you check the fiber content, you’ll notice that the vast majority of this clothing is made of petroleum-derived synthetic fibers—the same synthetic fibers that offer zero relief for those 12 cups of water you’re sweating while you play shuffleboard on the lido deck.
This high UPF rating is often obtained through special chemical treatments that will, over time, degrade with exposure, washing, and regular wear. Invest in a wool top and you might miss a few points of UPF protection, but what it does offer will never, ever go away.
So, you have insulation, a clean towel, deodorant, and sunscreen—none of which will ever let you down. Have I convinced you to try another plate of turkey?
I feel like I go to school each day with MDK! Thanks for all the teaching and encouragement. Who knew wool was so multifaceted. True multitasker
MDK University is the BEST!
The core of my summer wardrobe has become my sleeveless wool dresses from Woolx. And I live in Florida!
Not brave enough to to knit one….
Wondering – does superwash retain all the same wearing qualities as nonsuperwash wool?
Yesss! (I’m not brave enough to knit one either, by the way.)
I was just looking at those dresses! I live in Georgia and travel was my primary focus but looks like I’ll be able to make much more use of them!
I have a large stash of cotton and linen for all of the purposed benefits but think I’ll go ahead and cast on that wool tshirt now!
I went 100% wool last summer (with the exception of a handful of linen items) and have never looked back. When I tell people I’m wearing wool in 90 degrees plus they look at me as if I’m insane. Instead I’m cool and comfortable. I will never go back.
Go you, Vanessa! And thank you for spreading the word.
Fun and so interesting
Thank you Gail!
Thank you for the detailed and informative article. I live in Arizona so basically the surface of the sun. I’ve been looking at the wool basics but I was afraid it was too hot here to wear them. But I am so very much over clothing that does not breathe at all. I have a few t shirts that are blends (no longer 100% cotton) and if feels like I’m wearing a plastic bag.
I would be willing to knit my own T-shirt even with lace weight but are there patterns out there? And could I get needles small enough to create a solid fabric? I’m not advanced enough to design my own pattern.
Thank you
I am really looking forward to hearing about your experience with the wool swimsuit!
I’m eager to try it! I’ll definitely give an update. Maybe not a SELFIE mind you, but an update. 😉
Back in the day, (1950’s) when I was a child, both my parents wore wool bathing suits – I think too cheap to replace with more contemporary ones? Mother’s was an attractive navy, straight across the crotch area, and dad’s trunks a tweedy mustard/gold. I’m guessing the suits were more than a few years old then. The only issue was the hours it took for them to dry – seemed to be dripping on the clothesline for hours – ok when at home and swimming at the local pool, but on vacation trips a bit of a nuisance! I too am interested in your experience with your wool suit. And a related question as to wearing wool in the summer – are the wool cotton yarn blends as effective? I just ordered enough Saona for two tees . . . . . .
Also think of the clothing of African or Arabian desert peoples.
Perhaps, altho anything other than cotton or linen in NYC heat would kill me!
Also, I think perpetuating the cotton kills is a disservice as it certainly doesn’t kill more than synthetics, and, like most other synthetic fibers, it only kills in very specific and extreme circumstances.
You’re right, synthetics might do a slightly better job of keeping you from dying of hypothermia, especially when they’ve been coated with a special treatment to help the fiber wick moisture away from your body. But even then, they reach a point pretty quickly where they’ll feel wet no matter what. And you’re wearing something coated in chemicals. I say, if your cotton and linen is keeping you comfy in that NYC heat, don’t change a thing!
Cotton kills in other ways. It’s one of the most pesticide-heavy crops in the world.
That it is. And then there’s the forced labor issue…
Great article. I learned so much. Several years ago, I walked the Susan Komen 3-day 60-mile Walk for the Cure. I did it four years. And one of the first things we learned in the training is no cotton socks. They led to blisters, because they were always wet. I love cotton and linen, and have only recently begun to explore the world of wool for summer. As always, great writing and education. Thank you.
I found the same during a 100k walk on the Camino de Santiago two years ago. Always wool socks, and no blisters.
I’m so impressed you did that walk, Sandra! Bravo. And in terms of exploring wool for summer, the key really is about thickness – trying the lightest layer you can find, and going from there.
I hike a lot year-round and use wool for 3 seasons, as the odor-eliminating properties are real (stinky when I take off my shirt, but not stinky the next day when I put it on again). Unfortunately, I can’t wear wool in the summer heat outside hiking – it is just that extra bit too warm compared to microfiber, and I get overheated. The exception is my wool Darn Tough socks which I wear year-round. The expression “cotton kills” comes from sweating in cotton, then when you stop moving, or the temperature drops, you can become chilled very quickly from the wet cotton. Wet wool will still keep you warm. My 2 cents.
It’s true. And just two weeks ago a hiker had to be airlifted off Mount Washington here in New England. The culprit was intermittent rain, a drop in temperature, and cotton base layers. I am so, so glad they got her down safely.
I do have a question about that indelicate subject…do you really wear exercise clothes or socks a few times between washing? Intellectually I understand these benefits but emotionally I’m having a harder time wrapping my head around it.
Yes. I air my sweaters inside out and hang them in the courtyard, spot treating if necessary. Obviously at the end of winter they get washed.
I’ve read that merino can be worn forever without washing, but that’s too much for me…
Absolutely! An airing does the trick. If you’re really weirded out, hang them in the bathroom while you shower – the wool fibers will absorb the steam. Then bring them outside, and the fibers will release the steam and any perspiration in the process. It’s like a miniature spa for your clothes.
I have a stand-up steamer which means sweaters very rarely need washing; they are cleaned by steam.
Believe it! I just drape my t-shirt over my standing clothes line and the next day it’s not smelly at all. I wash them when I have a load of wash more out of habit than anything. Also, never wear cotton socks again. DarnTough has a very thorough line of socks for running, hiking, walking, day-to-day. I wear them every day, all year long. Especially when I’m kayaking–my feet don’t feel wet even when they’re soaked and they are definitely never cold.
Absolutely you can wear exercise clothes and socks several times between washings, you just air them out. Lightweight wool socks are the absolute best. If you don’t choose to knit them, Smartwool makes outstanding socks of all kinds. Cotton socks for lots of exercise or long distances has given me blisters; lightweight wool socks do not.
Yes!
A friend convinced me to try some wool t-shirts for travel a couple of years ago. Not only do they hold up well to multiple wearings, they look just a little bit nicer than cotton t-shirts so work a bit better for dressing up, as well as down.
I’m having a hard time getting my head around a wool swimsuit though — please report.
Oh I definitely will!
It’s the wool bra and underwear that has me scratching my head. And elsewhere.
I wear them (wool undies and bras). Supercomfy. Now, they do have synthetic mixed in there to make them very stretchy and clingy, but they are still worlds better than all-synthetic or cotton because of the sweat factor. As for washing, undies every time, but socks, bras, leggings, and shirts, definitely air out and wear again before washing.
It’s superfine Merino. Nary an itch to be felt. 🙂
Thank you! We cruise often and it’s hard to keep that bag under 50 pounds so having flexible separates is essential. I’ll order some!
Also very interested in the reports about the wool swim suit…something that also takes up too much space in the suitcase…I wish there were more options without giant fake boobs! 🙂 especially for travel.
By the looks of it, the wool swimsuit (linked in the column) has none of that giant puffy nonsense. It’s really a straightforward design. (Maybe too straightforward? Well see!)
Yes you have! I have been pondering this since Spring. My question is, the weight and gauge must factor in as well, no? Fingering wt at a looser gauge without defeating the sunscreen benefits? Thanks!
I live in a hot-in-summer and cold-in-winter climate and have been wearing merino clothing year-round. There are a ton of sources for merino clothing, all of it seems to be really well made so it is just a matter of personal preference. I would suggest checking return policies so that you can try on and find the proper style and fit. I like a bit of drape not a tight fit and have returned many form-hugging t-shirts.
Some of my finds? Woolx 3/4 sleeve tees fit me well, not too baggy and not too tight. MerinoTech tees one size up for the gym. On a hot summer day Icebreaker culottes are incredibly comfortable, as are Unbound Merino Travel Pants. Woolx has nice winter pants, and year-round merino pajamas. I like the merino underwear from Wooly.
I’ve been wearing Branwyn knit bras and underpants for a few years. [ 81% merino wool, 14% nylon, 5% elastane ] They perform as others have described and one option for laundering on the move is lathering and rinsing while wearing and then air-drying. A few customers report wearing as two-piece swim suits and the product line is expanding.
Branwyn.com
I would throw in a pitch for SimplyMerino underwear because they come in truly larger sizes for those of us who do not have an athletic physique.
Yes! Their photos are a relief to see, with a range of body types. I’ve been investing in underwear and undershirts from Simply Merino and highly recommend them.
Very good to know! So many of the companies that provide wool underwear (especially the outdoorsy companies like Ibex) have limited sizing and skimpier styles. You really have to look around.
Great article. Thank you, Clara! I love my Ibex shirts — they do exactly what you say :-)…. keep my body comfy.
Hooray!
Thank you, fabulous Clara, for more words of wooly wisdom!
My pleasure, Lisa! Thanks for reading!
I just got back from a week hiking in Shetland, and wore my Woolx shirts as a base layer every day. Sun, rain, wind, more rain, I was comfortable and yes, I did wear some of the shirts again (I travel with only a carry-on). In fact, it’s 85°F here now and I’m wearing one to the office today. Wool rules!
Welcome home! I hope you had a fabulous time in Shetland – and I’m glad the wool did such a good job.
I recently bought a wool sleeveless dress and 2 boxy tees from Wool& for a long trip. I loved the dress; super comfy, looked nice enough for Parisian sightseeing, adaptable to many “looks.” The tees were good, too, but they were the only style I could find anywhere that were short enough for my 5’3″ frame. What they called cropped on me was just … normal. All the others I tried came down to the widest part of my hips/butt and I just don’t need that. So come on, retailers! Short women need options!
This 5’2″ is shouting “Amen!”
I am a believer in wool socks, but never thought about sunscreen possibities!
Preach! fearless Leader! 🙂
I’ve worn wool socks year round since I first learned to knit them 20+ years ago, mostly cause they are way more comfortable than store bought. They do breathe so what’s not to love?! Learned just a few years back you can wear them a couple times before laundering. Awesome! Thanks for the sun protection info. Always love the education you share!!!
I was excited to read this as I am working on a car seat blanket for a much-expected new great-niecephew. I chose a washable wool, and I’m knitting it on a pretty open guage, with the idea that if the car a.c. is on high, it will keep baby from chilling, and that in the sun it can be tossed over the carseat as a little sunshade!
What a genius thing to knit as a gift – and you’re totally right, it’ll help the baby thermoregulate AND stay cool in the shade.
Oh Clara, you have nailed the summer attributes of wool. It is the most amazing fabric throughout history. Let us know how the wool swimsuit does. I so enjoy your articles.
I just purchased and wore a lightweight merino wool tshirt in Norway,(Devold) and it was so comfortable; not too hot or scratchy I didn’t take it off for 2 days! I’m converted! I might just knit myself another one.
I love this very informative article! I feel like the clothes I’ve worn to this point is so full of micro plastic that it’s a lot of what’s causing the inflammation throughout my body. I’d love to buy/make my own wardrobe from good healthy fibres. I get rashes from most animal fibres. Any suggestions on what might be more hypoallergenic to sensitive skin? Also I’d love a list of where a person can shop for clothing in the UK like you’ve written about. Looking forward to reading how your wool swim suit works out!
Wow! I can’t bare the thought, but I have to try it! Thank you so much for your amazing knowledge about wool, Clara. I follow you on IG and love your posts
Note that my island hovers around 34C in summer and gets humid… Malta. Which is why I can’t bare the thought LOL.
And for anyone who says climate change isn’t happening- growing up and in my 20s and even 30s the average was more 28, with the occasional heatwave of 34 – 36 in the shade. I’m now 63.
I live in New Orleans. I was skeptical but you got me hooked with the UPF info on wool. It would be nice to be able to paddleboard without covering my entire top half in chemical laden cloth. Does anyone make a very thin wool rash guard?
“Another plate of turkey?” Maybe not. But thanks for the info.
As a Brit I know that sheep are weather-resistant to all that our highly changeable climate can throw at them. As a knitter, I know that a lot of Merino sheep are ‘grown’ in Australia, which, while it does have mountains, isn’t exactly famed for being chilly.
So if Merino sheep can thrive in Oz, maybe the rest of us can thrive in woollens our heatwaves. I just don’t fancy the idea of handknitting 1 or 2-ply yarn. It took me a good 6 months to knit Kate Davies’ Possit, in 4-ply!
this was great and sure, another plate of turkey please.
Another question how does this apply to Mohair and Alpaca? I’ve heard Mohair gets prickly in the heat and that alpaca and mohair are a lot warmer than wool. So are they a complete no go for warm weather?
Really interesting info. I had no idea wool could be a summer protection garment.
I wholeheartedly agree with the comfort of light wool clothing, even in a tropical rainforest. While I was hiking in Costa Rica, a sudden and lengthy tropical monsoon left me and my woolies completely soaked. I was literally dripping down the trail. After a few minutes I caught a faint whiff of what I recognized as wet sheep and realized it was me! By the end of the hike I was mostly dry, comfortably cool and not too baaad from the experience.
Hi Clara,
Is there any information you can share about the two wool scarves/wraps pictured here? I’ve looked for the info on The Wool Channel, but couldn’t find it. Thanks!
Very interesting article about wool. Having worked in a high end fabric store several years ago I came to an appreciation of very finely spun wool fabric. This article reinforced the things I learned about wool and summer clothing.
Wonderful article. Thank you for sharing it