Techniques in Depth: Less Evenly Across?

March 19, 2021

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  • Great post! However, I just use an online calculator, that does the math for me…

  • Thanks Kate. I think there are two typos on the “in the round” suggestion. Aren’t we peppering 4 stitches not 5? And wouldn’t that eliminate the k4 at the end of the round?

    • Right you are! Fixed that typo. Thanks, Gretchen.

  • Wow, I’m just so impressed with your very cool illustrations! Thanks for this, Kate.

  • I do the math like this but then I put removable stitch markers across the needle to mark where the increases/decreases happen so that I’m not forever trying to remember what I’m supposed to be doing. Not a huge issue when the math results in simpler instructions, but for those compound instructions where you’re alternating intervals, it really makes it easier for me.

  • Excellent article, but please double check. Unless I am very mistaken, the combination of
    (K9, m1), (k9, m1), (k8, m1), (k9, m1), (k9, m1), (k8, m1), k4. results in 62 stitches, versus the 58 desired.
    am I missing something or is a bit of proofing precision needed?

    • You’re right! Deleted that extra k4. Thanks, Adele!

  • Okay I am excited to have a place to ask this question, which extends the topic somewhat: What about a top-down sweater, when you have more flesh in front than in back, but the pattern recommends regular increases? Logically, more increases should be in front right? Is it okay to just put 3/5 in front and 2/5 in back, or whatever suits you?

    • Erika… an interesting idea! I’m not a knitter or designer of raglans myself, for precisely this reason. They don’t fit my narrow-shouldered-but-busty frame. To answer the first half of the question: you could absolutely make the math work, yes! As to how to make it work for the garment fit, you’d need to consider whether you needed the extra fabric at the front for the entire yoke, or just part of it… It’s all about where the larger fabric is needed, if that makes sense? If I may express a (potentially unpopular :-)) opinion here: the seamless top-down isn’t the be-all and end-all of garment structures, and sometimes it’s easier to start with a structure that’s more amenable to these types of changes, and more easily adjustable… I’d recommend trying a garment worked in pieces, so you can more easily modify the area you need without affecting the others. And you might find a set-in-sleeve a bit more accommodating for your shape. Amy Herzog’s Ultimate Sweater Book is a super reference!

      • Yep. As mostly a sewer not a knitter I am very familiar with what my shape looks like in sweaters made in pieces/set-in sleeves. But I like both raglans and yokes. To accommodate the narrow top of armscye and then the much broader mid/bottom of armscye/bust, I think you would maybe do evenly-spaced increases for the first maybe third of the armscye (same in front in back as both are narrowish) and then stop increasing in the back and do all in front until you get through the bust.

        Of course that’s FINE if you are not doing a pattern. In a pattern … well, I see a market niche! Yoke patterns designed to accommodate busts. Maybe there are some already out there?

  • Great article with lots of analysis And great diagrams. Thank you.

  • Great tutorial! Well explained & illustrated. Thank you!

  • Re increases evenly over row. . Instead of writing it out, I place pin on markers, splitting the numbers of sts by half each time. So midway row first, then middle of each segment. Repeat until I have the number of increases (markers) needed. That way I see the result and also can move the markers if the result doesn’t please me.