In the Kitchen With Francatelli, Part Two

January 20, 2020

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  • Thanks, Franklin, for allowing me to enjoy a dish that I will never make or eat. Also, MDK, thanks for reminding me of Franklin’s adventures with Bettina; I am glad to have a little more time with her. Lovely way to start the week.

  • What a great send-up if both modern and former food fetishes! I cackled the whole time I read this. Thanks, Franklin!

  • Vegetable Legos…carrots and green beans will never look the same.

  • Amazing!! You had me at “forcemeat” lol

  • Oh, how I enjoyed reading this! I am a very basic cook and the few times I have gone overboard on a recipe, I’ve been disappointed by the blandness! Maybe my palate is not well developed?

    • Oh no, just like in knitting. It isn’t you, it is the recipe!

  • I looked three times at the Vol-au-vent a la Financiere. Next time will you explain the story behind that?

    I will never be making quenelles, it is anathema to my
    Indian spirit that demands both color and flavor. You, Franklin, on the other hand, deliver both in spades. We crave more from you!

  • Oh, Franklin, you slay me! What a fun read. I’m even more happier now with my wanton and peasantish cooking habits.

  • It was so nice to see you again at VKL. Thanks for this morning’s chuckle/chortle. Keep the laughs coming!

  • “authentic Victorian dentistry”

    Who was it that said “tragedy plus time equals comedy?”

  • More. Franklin.

    Because I want him to describe the process of serving roast partridge in a missile silo.

  • I cannot stand wobby white food…yet I want to hear more.

  • Pure enjoyment – thank you, Franklin! I was also reminded of Dali‘s gala dinner book:
    Worth the look if you have not seen it. The Taschen reprint is of courseüber-lavish, just as the matter deserves…

  • Oh, hold the flip phone. One annihilates one pound (16 ounces, n’est-ce pas???) of chicken, and then one uses 12 ounces in the recipe? One supposes the remaining quarter pound is meant to be deployed to Cat Supper. Yet, how should THAT be prepared? I wait with bated breath.

  • I like to eat food that is the least touched, the better.

  • Now I kinda want to make a marzipan replica of the York Minster.

  • I’m all admiration. However, truthfully, I’d rather be knitting!

  • I am thinking perhaps I have seen the sort of wire mesh sieve one could force a pound of chicken through…among other weird farmhouse bits found in the basement, next to the mercury treatment for syphilis nailed into the subfloor.
    Your commendation of the recipe doesn’t seem to make it an excuse to buy a food processor, much less to scrub up the mesh. However, I’m sure I won’t throw out the bread bits in the freezer now, JUST IN CASE I end up with an urgent need for quenelles.

  • The main attraction about quenelles is the name. It sounds like some fancy knitwear, or maybe the spa town that gave its name to the knitwear. Fun to read as always.

  • The sauce straining is in case any little tiny lumpy bits from the egg have coagulated. Smoothness is everything!

    A joy to read as always. I’d recommend Lucy Worsley’s program (2 episodes) on the wedding of Victoria and Albert. The chefs actually recreate the macaroni timbale made by Fracatelli’s mentor and predecessor. They find it daunting!

  • Dear Franklin,
    I like the Chinese variant of these dumplings. A few drops of sesame oil and a few shreds of fresh ginger improve the taste greatly. A few tiny dice of red pepper improve both taste and appearance. Browning them off the next day also is a great improvement. 51 years ago, when I was 16, my parents and I went to SanFrancisco to visit her elderly aunt. We had lunch in a tiny Cantonese place where we enjoyed the food greatly. They sold a little pamphlet cookbook that promised to make Chinese chefs out of us. I couldn’t resist and bought it. When we got home to San Diego, my girlfriend and I cooked a feast for both families. The chicken breast dumplings were succulent and tasty. I think I still have the booklet. BTW. Bettina has the best lemon meringue pie ever. Use plenty of Meyer lemons. My mother grew the lemons and made world class pastry. Her lemon pie was legendary. All thanks to Bettina and a French great-grandmother who originated the pastry. ..
    Julie Lanner in San Diego