Eats
Memorial Day Greetings!
Happy Monday, everyone, and a special Memorial Day greeting to our U.S. readers.
On national holidays, people may be too distracted by family, fireworks, and the construction of desserts involving Cool Whip and red and blue fruits, to give full attention to deep thoughts on knitting. Ann is taste-testing someone’s deviled eggs, Kay is running out to get the propane tank refilled—the knitting gets sidelined for a minute.
So today we post a favorite recipe by Laurie Colwin, a writer who was particularly beloved for her writing for Gourmet magazine. Colwin died young, 25 years ago, but her generous, intimate writing, collected in two lovely little books (see below), continues to be read, and her easygoing recipes continue to be cooked. My own hearty and laissez-faire approach to what-I-call-entertaining is informed by reading and re-reading Laurie Colwin. It’s comfort reading with a side of comfort food.
So here you go, long-weekend revelers: the New York Times’s version of Laurie Colwin’s Baked Mustard Chicken. Coat it up with mustard, crumbs, and spices, shove it in the oven for 2 hours, and feed it to your beloveds without fuss. Here’s the Epicurious version (and a reminder that there are multiple publications of many NYT Cooking recipes, all of them just a quick google away).
It’s not seasonally appropriate, but I would be remiss not to mention Laurie Colwin’s recipe for the best gingerbread I’ve ever tasted. I strongly urge you to go with the lemon icing.
Happy holiday and a joyous Monday to all!
By Laurie Colwin:
Home Cooking: A Writer in the Kitchen
More Home Cooking: A Writer Returns to the Kitchen
Photo: Joshua Bright for the New York Times
MDK receives a commission for book purchases through links in this article.
I have both of those books plus all of her fiction; I read those little books of essays every winter at least once, more often if I get sick. For some reason, I think they are perfect convalescent reading. So comforting.
I appreciate the comfort convalescent reading reminder – in a couple of weeks I’ll have outpatient wrist surgery (haven’t been able to knit in ages!) & her writing will be just what I need.
Thank you for writing about Laurie C – she is a favorite author of mine and I am also a huge fan of her two books on food & cooking. I hope that, via this newsletter, more people are reminded of her & her writing.
I can’t click thru to the recipe without a NY Times full access subscription ☹️
I guess this is where I put in my pitch for a subscription to the NYT and any other publication you enjoy. It’s a dollar a week for the NYT, which is an incredible bargain when you think of the breadth of coverage they provide. Supporting publications is something we should all do—none of it is free to produce, and many of them are under tremendous stress due to the way the internet has devalued content.
Good point!
Even if you buy just the Sunday Times for physical delivery you get access to everything thing. It’s $42/month-not cheap but less than a daily Starbucks.
Agreed! If we can afford it we need to support as much journalism as possible especially in these days of “fake news” accusations. A free press isn’t free.
And especially if you *can* afford to support, you also are helping keep such work available for others. It’s one reason I support The Guardian— they keep their newspaper free to access for all thanks to (in part) support from readers.
Here’s the recipe via A Pinch of This: https://wp.me/p53i2G-ei
Same here.. I subscribe but not t to NYT Cooking
I have the same problem clicking thru? Mustard is delicious in a cream sauce over pork, too. I have made the Italian sheet pan dinner for years. Quick and tasty.
I had wrist surgery on both hands, separate ly. Worst thing is, I couldn’t knit to relax afterward. I was grumpy lol.
Here’s the recipe via A Pinch of This: https://wp.me/p53i2G-ei
Laurie Colwin’s books about cooking are priceless. I haven’t made that many of the recipes, but I always feel like she is a really good friend when I read them. Thanks for the reminder!
I agree—you almost don’t need to make or eat the food, just reading about it is so delicious.
Unfortunately a subscription is required to get these recipes. Maybe you could post them for those of us who are having the same problem…
Here’s the recipe via A Pinch of This: https://wp.me/p53i2G-ei
Just search on Google (or whatever you use) for ‘Laurie Colwin’s baked mustard chicken’. Several posts to choose from.
I googled the recipe and was able to get it via Epicurious.
It’s everywhere, thank goodness! Here’s a very fully illustrated version on A Pinch of This: https://wp.me/p53i2G-ei
Similar coating also great on fish.
Can’t access either recipe without subscription. Please post recipes in a format that we all can access. Otherwise, it is a terrible tease!
Here’s the recipe via A Pinch of This: https://wp.me/p53i2G-ei
I’ve read Colwin’s novels, but not her food writing. Just stepped away to put a hold on Home Cooking at the library–4 holds already! The power of MDK?
I just ordered both of her “cookbooks”…. I pretty much do what I am told by Modern Daily Knitting. It always feels as if my friends are sharing something wonderful with me.
Thanks for helping to make some changes in my knitting and day to day life!
Smooches,
Kate
We will use our power for good, Kate….and I know you will love Laurie Colwin’s books.
I can’t believe it. I used to make that chicken recipe all the time years ago and somehow forgot all about it. It is delicious and so easy. Great for company. Thank you for posting it.
A Big Storm Knocked it Over is one of my favorite books and her cooking books are sublime. I was deeply saddened when she passed.
The mustard baked chicken is my daughter’s fsvorite dish that I cook. It is sublime, peole, do not worry a out the mustard. It does not taste like mustard, it just tastes amazing.
One tip, I use half breadcrumbs and half panko for a crispier crust, I also use chicken leg quarters because that’s the best part of fried chicken.
I’d also like to recommend Chicken Francese (NYT recipe) as a other crazy good chicken recipe, serve it over rice rather than the recommended pasta because rice soaks up more of the delicious sauce,
Always so glad to find others who appreciate and miss the pitch perfect writing voice of Laurie Colwin. I reread Home Cooking and its sequel often.
Don’t forget the her potato salad! I’m making it today. Those two books are one of my favorite gifts to give to cooking friends.
Have a thoughtful Memorial Day Remember those who made the #ultimatesacrifice
Ohhhh, she’s the best! I, too, return to her books often. And her lemon chutney is still hands-down the ultimate! https://food52.com/recipes/8639-lemon-chutney But use 1t of crushed coriander seeds as the original did, rather than the cinnamon:)
I have it saved in my recipes folder and printed out. Yum. Love the comments that people have made. I am going to order her books today.
It’s not what you call entertaining! It IS entertaining!! 😉
The chicken looks delicious … and I’m not familiar with Laurie Colwin, but she sounds like someone I’d love to read. Thanks for the heads-up!
‘Home Cooking’ has had a permanent spot on my nightstand for years. I love that you mentioned Laurie Colwin today. Happy Monday!
I also loved reading Laurie Colwin’s pieces for Gourmet. I wasn’t aware that she authored two books. I’m putting these on my reading list together with Ruth Reichl’s new memoir about her time as Gourmet editor.
I have several of Laurie Colwin’s fiction books on my shelf that I reread — it was so sad when she died so young. I never knew she was also a food writer! Thanks for the post, Kay — I’m with the others going straight to buy the book online!
Is Laurie Colwin the one who wrote a lot about eggplant, and cooking in a small kitchen in NY? If so, I heard some of her books read out loud on some radio show on NPR years ago. By someone who likes to read cookbooks that have more than just recipes in them. They keep a stack of them on the bedside table. I thought it was charming!
Yes, Colwin wrote about eggplant being the single person’s best friend. She ate it from a Meissen plate.
Laurie Colwin graduated from the high school where I work (go, Cheltenham HS!) I’ve seen her picture in the lobby for years, but have never read any of her books – now you all have inspired me! Thank you!
Thanks for the reminder about Laurie Colwin–such a wonderful writer. I was young when she died, too and it seemed unbelievable. I do have a subscription to the NYT digitally, primarily for the crossword, but also because, as you said, a free press isn’t free.
Back when a literary agent was doing his best to convince me to write a book, he recommended Laurie Colwin as required reading. And he’s not steered me wrong since!
You’re right about the gingerbread, and Laurie Colwin is right about letting that lemon icing mellow. Her cookbooks make me smile!
Laurie Colwin is my entertaining inspiration as well. Roast chicken – Katherine Hepburn brownies – shortbread. I must try the gingerbread. No cool whip.
Thank you for sharing Laurie Colwin. With us. I received my copy of of More Home Cooking. I am halfway through reading it. It is like reading a conversation with my best friend. Thank you again
Kate Manning
Thank you for mentioning Laurie Colwin! I hope her daughter knows how much her mother was loved. To read Colwin’s prose was to love her. I give her books to every newlywed couple I know.
I have looked for a recipe for Black Cake ever since she mentioned it. No Jamaican recipe has ever sounded quite right, as she described the taste. But I do love her Gingerbread.
There is at least one other book on the market called “Home Cooking” as, it appears, titles are not copyrighted. So, readers. be aware that there is more than one author with that book title.
I found this recipe on http://www.sprungatlast.com – its in the oven now – just can’t believe I can leave it in for 2 hours – for just chicken breasts…?!!!!